Free-D

El Corte Inglés is coming to Salamanca. That is, if it can resolve certain legal difficulties it has come up against after starting construction.

“What’s so English about it?” you may wonder, “Does it employ gloomy Essex teenagers to restock its shelves? Does it serve an English breakfast: one leathery rasher of bacon and cold beans for the price of a small family car?” Probably not.

Having already flogged the dead horse which is the concept of service in England, I should say that the difference in outlook between our countries is best represented on another plane altogether.

There is probably no greater gulf between us than that which is demonstrated by religious belief. To be “nominally Anglican” in England is a different matter entirely to being “nominally catholic” in Spain. Indeed, to belong to the former group means simply that one writes “C of E” on application forms – whereas the church here has integrated itself far more successfully with the every day life of the population.

You may be an atheist in Spain but you will at least know the local saints day thanks to the fact that everyone celebrates it by running bulls, letting off fireworks and any other number of “inhuman acts” (according to the Sun newspaper.)

This link between church and people has its pro’s and con’s.  I don’t wish to dwell on its disadvantages here. Besides, its advantages are many, not least for the tourist. It’s not particularly flattering to the faith -  but  in general the English view many expressions of catholic piety and belief as a sort of  dark “cabinet of curiosities”.

The idea of relics in particular exercises a powerful influence over the timid imagination of the English visitor, for whom “religion” has always meant something rather tepid - Dick Emerys’ comedy vicar and Harvest festival (the perfect time to get rid of that tin of creamed cabbage). 

In addition to the richness of culture which Catholicism brings to Salamanca, the respect given  the “Sabbath” (something we’ve lost in England) means  that the visitor has the opportunity to view the city without the tempting distraction of commerce. 

We are reminded that culture is more than trade: it is belief and art; subtle treasures which are easily overshadowed by the glitzy showiness of malls and department stores.

So perhaps we shouldn’t worry too much about the current situation which the Corte Ingles finds itself in.