Free-D

How do you know who your true friends are? Well, a good place to start, apparently, is to contract a powerful infestation of mites or lice; those people who will even shake hands with you during such times can be counted on the fingers of that dubious limb. I was lucky enough to experience such an infestation recently and, other than the obvious advantages, it was a most illuminating experience regarding human nature, friendship and the local character in particular. There’s a temptation when you’re travelling to wander around thinking everything and everyone is simply wonderful.

But tell a Spaniard that and you’ll get a look of derision and the text book answer – “There are all kinds here”. Of course they’re right, and after all, such a rosy image is not just a little patronising. However, despite the truth of this, I simply can’t help but foster a positive image of the Castilian people – due to my recent trying experiences. No, not many folk want you within a hundred yards if you and your house are infested with unknown parasites, and to be honest at such times, when you’re virtually homeless and far from your family, things can seem pretty hopeless. But then comes what you might call the “hour of true friendship”. Whilst staying with some of these true friends of mine in Alba de Tormes, covered in more than 50 “insect” bites, bleeding horribly from an over hasty and panicked all-body shave and rather emotionally overwrought, the thing that really struck me was that they were constantly warning me that there were some terrible people out there and that I had to have my wits about me. Unfortunately wits are something that seem to desert me at the most inopportune moments and of course the irony is that whilst warning of the generally despicable nature of others, my hosts with their, what I can only call “saintly” behaviour, completely undermined their own argument. So it’s naïve and not the least realistic, but thanks to their incredible hospitality I can’t help but have the most wonderful image of Castilians in general.

We do like to generalise as a species; generally that is! I suppose we can’t avoid it; but perhaps to generalise in a positive way may not be as bad. I certainly hope so. One thing that anyone would have learnt from this experience, however, is that whilst Salamanca has produced many celebrated sons and daughters, the best of them are most probably on your own doorstep. They certainly were on mine. With many thanks to the family Martín Pérez.