Each day now we witness some new harbinger of economic doom, whether it’s the plummet in the profits of Salamanca’s biggest shops during the sales, local hotel’s shrinking clientele or the growing number of unemployed in the region. More than all this, however, is the terrifying fact that people are using the expression “these days”. Good lord, what an appalling combination of syllables. Read the rest of this entry »
We live under dimming skies, even Salamanca from across the sparse encina studded hills appears shrouded in the bruised, griseous haze of a smog. But this is only “natural”, Salamanca is a European city like any other - full of cars, buses and other major sources of pollution. Most cities don’t, however, enjoy the advantage of the Mirat fertilizer factory pumping out clouds of toxic waste for the benefit of the local populace every now and again. Read the rest of this entry »
According to G.K Chesterton the most romantic thing in the world is when the trains runs on time. Only someone who lived in Britain could say such a thing. When it actually happens, your typical Englishman is a little unsure how to act; other than the usual exclamations of “Good gracious, the train is on time!”, what we’re really left with is a nagging suspicion that something, somewhere must be wrong. Read the rest of this entry »
Chances are, if you’re on a flying visit here, you’ll be popping into one of the tourist shops along the Rua Mayor. The options for frittering away your euros there are endless. You could, for example, buy a flamenco related item, having absolutely no relation to this region at all, or perhaps a Salamanca university hoodie. Or if you’re really stuck for ideas you could buy a locally produced plate with typical regional decoration. Read the rest of this entry »
How do you know who your true friends are? Well, a good place to start, apparently, is to contract a powerful infestation of mites or lice; those people who will even shake hands with you during such times can be counted on the fingers of that dubious limb. I was lucky enough to experience such an infestation recently and, other than the obvious advantages, it was a most illuminating experience regarding human nature, friendship and the local character in particular. There’s a temptation when you’re travelling to wander around thinking everything and everyone is simply wonderful. Read the rest of this entry »
What’s your deepest fear? Well, apparently the majority of Spaniards are most preoccupied by the rising cost of petrol, with terrorism and climate change coming in 4th and 5th. Not much of a surprise really; a similar survey this time last year came up with more or less the same results. But of course these aren’t anyone’s deepest concerns. Read the rest of this entry »
Nothing is more indicative of a country’s social health than the general attitude towards its young and elderly. It’s commonly believed in England that Southern Europeans live longer. But I’m not sure it’s true; the old folk of England manage to drag out more or less the same life span as their Spanish and Italian counterparts. Read the rest of this entry »
One of the many things which strike you whilst meandering round a Castellano pueblo is the presence of so many recycling bins. It may surprise you, but the Spanish seem to be much greener than us Brits. It’s all relative of course; everyone needs to be doing a lot more; but the signs in this region at least are that awareness is growing. Salamanca appears to be particularly ahead of the game in some respects; its level of recycling rose 18% this year. Furthermore, the province now enjoys seven times the amount of solar energy than it did a year ago. Read the rest of this entry »
This week I’m far from Salamanca, 900 kilometres in Fact. It’s a funny life drifting between two worlds; you end up being a stranger everywhere. There’s also a sense of relief on arriving at either destination which isn’t simply due to the escape from the impersonal ordeal that is modern travel; there are always the things you’ve missed whichever country you’re returning to. Read the rest of this entry »
Salamanca plays host to many visiting academics, having as it does one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Europe. I first came across mention of the city and its university in a story by Irving in a collection of American short stories - an anthology which was, coincidentally, edited by an academic from my own home town of Norwich. Read the rest of this entry »
